Nikon D3300 user new to site

ReneeSDL · May 24, 2017

Have been out of the photo game for about 10 years. Just recently purchased a nikon d3300 and am trying to figure out how to master it. Would be interested in finding experienced d3300 users who don't mind helping with suggestions and tips.
My area of interest is drag racing and other Motorsports photography. Had pretty good luck with the kit lens but just upgraded to a Tamron 16-300mm F3.5-6.3 Di ll VC PZD Macro and didn't fair as well. So help with that would be greatly appreciated also
Renee

Designer · May 24, 2017

ReneeSDL said:
Had pretty good luck with the kit lens but just upgraded to a Tamron 16-300mm F3.5-6.3 Di ll VC PZD Macro and didn't fair as well.

Welcome!

I'm curious as to what differences you found in the two lenses. Why didn't the Tamron meet your expectations?

ReneeSDL · May 24, 2017

I don't think it was the lens itself just me tinkering with settings trying to find the right ones. I shot photos of the San Antonio missions and other than over exposing a few I did ok. I'm just trying to figure out the right combination to get nice clear pics of cars leaving the line using the lens at about 150mm.

tecboy · May 25, 2017

Are you using full manual?

ReneeSDL · May 25, 2017

No I'm just getting back to photography and this is my first digital SLR. Previously only had a point and shoot.

Designer · May 25, 2017

ReneeSDL said:
I'm just trying to figure out the right combination to get nice clear pics of cars leaving the line using the lens at about 150mm.

That focal length is longer than your other lens, so you will need to learn new camera-holding techniques to get sharper photos.

A good rule of thumb is to keep your shutter speed equal or faster than the reciprocal of the focal length.

For shooting at 150mm, (all other things being normal) your shutter speed should be 1/150 of a second or faster. (Until you have developed superb holding skills, and can go to a slightly slower shutter speed.)

Also, if your subjects are moving, then you really need a much faster shutter speed.

ReneeSDL · May 26, 2017

Thank you for that info and yes the cars are going approximately 100 mph at the 60 foot mark. Would I be better off with less zoom (say 50mm) and a faster than 1/150? Should I let the camera select Aperture and ISO? I'm not confident enough to go all out manual. And I can't afford to miss shots. The cars are running 5 seconds and less in the 8th mile. So getting clean shots is a must.
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ReneeSDL · May 26, 2017

I'm also using a mono pod and not doing hand held most of the time

Designer · May 26, 2017

ReneeSDL said:
Thank you for that info and yes the cars are going approximately 100 mph at the 60 foot mark. Would I be better off with less zoom (say 50mm) and a faster than 1/150? Should I let the camera select Aperture and ISO? I'm not confident enough to go all out manual. And I can't afford to miss shots. The cars are running 5 seconds and less in the 8th mile. So getting clean shots is a must.

Photography is an art form and technical at the same time. So there is no "one right answer" for a particular attempt.

A wider focal length would help with camera shake, but then the subject will be so far away that you lose that "intimacy" that you can have with a longer lens. I suspect that the longer lens is the one to use. 150-200mm seems about right to fill the frame and get the viewer "into the action". Just have to hold the camera steady (or invest in a really expensive lens). There some tricks to use: Get a monopod, and use it to help steady the camera. Use a fast shutter to "freeze" the motion. Learn to be selective in what shots to make and which ones to pass up, knowing in advance that they will be blurry. Blur on purpose (the opposite) to create "artful" images.

I would probably let the ISO go on "auto" because what the heck, it's just am image processor, and if the camera is allowed to go ahead and process the image you took, let it.

Aperture is another thing you should have completed control over. I would probably put my camera into "aperture" mode, and watch the shutter speed as I compensate for exposure while watching the meter in my viewfinder. The reason is because I want the aperture to set the DOF, so as long as I can still get my shutter speed fast enough to freeze the motion, then I'm good.

Try to minimize the "cross-frame" movement, so you want to be almost inline of the cars' movement, as at the finish line, for instance, so the relative motion is more toward you, and not completely sideways to the camera.

If the sideways shot is the only one you can get (or want) then learn to "pan" to keep the cars sharp while blurring the background.

Gotta go.