I think a 60-second development time is too short for the ultimate in consistency, even on RC paper. A few seconds here or there, a bit more vigorous agitation of slightl less-viforous agitation, etc..; to me, on a 60-second total development time, the time and the agitation is too short for consistency. When do you start the dveloping timing? As the print hits the developer? After it has been submerged in total? When do you stop the timer? As soon as you lift it out of the Dektol (that's a hint: get some Dektol for Kodak paper, Ilford for Ilford)? Do you count the drain time as part of the development time? If you have no stop bath, the print continues developing a bit....with plain water, after 10,15 prints, the water is not stopping development very much. Do you develop prints FACE-DOWN? SO there's no temptation to "yank" the print early? Do some experiments; if your darkroom is light-tight AND your safelight is not fogging your paper, I think you might find a slightly richer, deeper D-max black and more contrast between the tones with a 90-second or 100-second or 120-second development time. Yes, even on RC paper. Again: I dislike a 60-second development time for enlargements...I think it leads to substandard work, and makes RC paper prints often look, well..substandard. Microwaved hamburger. Pan-friend hamburger. Paper developer is far better that film developer, althougnh I will admit, I have souped a fair amount of prints in HC-110 film developer.