chainsawal
TPF Noob!
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2013
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 13
- Can others edit my Photos
- Photos OK to edit
I have been shooting as a hobbyist for a few years... slowly collecting good glass along the way. I currently shoot with a D800 (also have a D7000 and D80) and I have all Nikon lens (24-70 f/2.8, 70-200 f/2.8, 50mm f/1.8, new 80-400mm f/4.5 to 5.6, etc) and one Sigma 15mm f/2.8 fisheye.
Obviously when buying "fast" glass... the appeal it how I can now shoot in low light... better bokeh on portraits, etc...
But I also see many people talking about how you need to take that new expensive f/2.8 and "step down" 2-3 steps to get the best tack sharp focus.
Is there some resource out there shows for each lens what the f-stop range that gives the best "tack sharp" focus?
Can someone explain the rationale behind this is it is true?
Shooting inside with strobes or off-camera flash is easy, but I shoot a lot of sports outside where that lowest f/stop matters... and depending on lighting conditions things aren't always sharp.
I was always under the impression you bought fast glass for the ability to use that wide open aperture...
Please advise...
Chainsawal
Obviously when buying "fast" glass... the appeal it how I can now shoot in low light... better bokeh on portraits, etc...
But I also see many people talking about how you need to take that new expensive f/2.8 and "step down" 2-3 steps to get the best tack sharp focus.
Is there some resource out there shows for each lens what the f-stop range that gives the best "tack sharp" focus?
Can someone explain the rationale behind this is it is true?
Shooting inside with strobes or off-camera flash is easy, but I shoot a lot of sports outside where that lowest f/stop matters... and depending on lighting conditions things aren't always sharp.
I was always under the impression you bought fast glass for the ability to use that wide open aperture...
Please advise...
Chainsawal