a horrible chapter in our endeavor to become illustrious world famous photographers

[tirediron]

...got a quote earlier from a local photo store that does work with b&w negs... pssshhhhh not a chance...

they want $5.00 per instance (strip/roll) PLUS .60 cents PER scan if we do them all or .75 cents per scan if i want to pick and choose.

That's CHEAP! When I send my MF negatives out for scanning, the first negative is $12.00, additionals are $7.00 each.

 

[Dominantly]

I might be the only one, but I find it pretty funny you went out with a chart instead of the ability to read your light meter.I have a link down below about metering you should check out (link #2). Ask any questions there that you may have.

 

[naptime]

...got a quote earlier from a local photo store that does work with b&w negs... pssshhhhh not a chance...

they want $5.00 per instance (strip/roll) PLUS .60 cents PER scan if we do them all or .75 cents per scan if i want to pick and choose.

That's CHEAP! When I send my MF negatives out for scanning, the first negative is $12.00, additionals are $7.00 each.

you should stop shooting in medium format.

film is dead.

digital is the way.

 

[naptime]

I might be the only one, but I find it pretty funny you went out with a chart instead of the ability to read your light meter.I have a link down below about metering you should check out (link #2). Ask any questions there that you may have.

that's awesome. i'm glad that my inexperience brought you some laughter today.


thanks for the links. i will be sure to read them, and fully understand them before picking up my camera again.

i don't want to ask any questions though. i might get laughed at.

 

[TamiAz]

I might be the only one, but I find it pretty funny you went out with a chart instead of the ability to read your light meter.I have a link down below about metering you should check out (link #2). Ask any questions there that you may have.

that's awesome. i'm glad that my inexperience brought you some laughter today.


thanks for the links. i will be sure to read them, and fully understand them before picking up my camera again.

i don't want to ask any questions though. i might get laughed at.

I say..Let 'em laugh!! I've learned so much from this place and it's helping me grow a thicker skin!!

 

[naptime]

I might be the only one, but I find it pretty funny you went out with a chart instead of the ability to read your light meter.I have a link down below about metering you should check out (link #2). Ask any questions there that you may have.

that's awesome. i'm glad that my inexperience brought you some laughter today.


thanks for the links. i will be sure to read them, and fully understand them before picking up my camera again.

i don't want to ask any questions though. i might get laughed at.

I say..Let 'em laugh!! I've learned so much from this place and it's helping me grow a thicker skin!!

oh i agree.

i learn at my pace. and i have a desire to learn. i listen to what's told to me. and i'm appreciative for assistance.

but when someone feels the need to toot their own horn and laugh because i don't know about metering, on my second day with a camera... they can laugh all they want. it doesn't mean much to me.

in a month if i have learned nothing, then when someone laughs, i will laugh with them.

but i don't see that happening.

 

[naptime]

well, i posted some pics in another thread for c&c.

but i'll post a few in here as well, maybe we can figure out where i went wrong on some of the exposures.

remember, these are processed at home, scanned on my flatbed scanner with some mods to make it work for the film.

the only thing i did with these is crop, and AUTO-contrast in Picasa.

i have picasa, paint shop pro 9, gimp, corel photo paint but i'm not much of a photo editor. so for these, forgetting started and getting them up here, i jsut let picasa handle the auto contrast and i added a little fill light on a few.


a few that came out properly. (i use that term loosely as someone who's only been out twice)

this was iso 100 film, 90 shutter speed, f11, hand held. grey skies.

Image10.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr

this was iso 100 film, 125 shutter speed, f8, hand held, grey skies.

Image4.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr

this was iso 100 film, 90 shutter speed, f11, hand held, grey skies.

Image11.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr

 

[naptime]

and a few that didnt quite come out as planned.

iso 100, 90 shutter speed, f11, hand held. much darker than i thought it would be. and a serious lack of detail.

Image9.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr


iso 100, 90 shutter speed, f11, hand held, again, lots of lost detail, and darker than i had hoped.

Image8.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr

iso 100, 90 shutter speed, f11, hand held. i had lots of hope for this one. and thought for sure it would be one of my best of the day. but it wasnt to be.

Image7.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr

 

[naptime]

here are some of the ones that were just totally destroyed.

courthouse. i could not tell you why, but for some reason i changed by aperture to f22. from f8. i honestly have no idea why, but i did, and i have it written down. this courthouse is normally greyish tan in color. your normal run of the mill concrete. and yet it came out black. i assume because of my fstop.

iso 100, shutter speed 125, f22, hand held.


Image20.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr

this building is one that is also concretish in color. yellowish greyish. but it came out black, with virtually no detail. i can hardly make out any of the windows. and it's another where the camera was set on f22

iso 100, shutter speed 125, f22, hand held.


Image18.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr

and finally, we ended the day at one of the metro parks. this is one of the almost visible shots. the rest i took here, of walkways and and the small river, are all virtually black. this particular shot is a foot bridge that crosses the river. all wood.but you can only see the rails closest to me. you should be able to see the whole bridge, ended at the other set of handrails, and you should be able to see that there is river below. but, no detail, mostly black. camera was still on f22.


iso 100, shutter speed 125, f22, hand held. for this one i also used my hot shoe flash, set on ttl mode.


Image14.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr


and another from the park. this one you should see a beaver dam at the bottom, the river flowing off into a curve, and the trees above. it's the one that got away.

iso 100, shutter speed 125, f22, hand held, and this one again i used my hot shoe flash on ttl mode.


Image15.tif by jaythomson, on Flickr

 

[BlackSheep]

OMG, rofl!

Welcome to the wonderfully insane world of photography.

Sorry. I really wish it was different.

the guy did let me know how wonderful their scanner was. and how many thousands of dollars the equipment cost. and how many thousands of dollars the software cost. he was also very good at letting me know that these would be high resolution scans. and they would run ICE on them.

i reminded him that the pictures look like crap to begin with.

you can polish a turd all day. at the end of the day you still just have shiny sh*t

Just wanted to say - naptime, I LOVE your sense of humour!!!!!! LOL!
Glad you showed up on TPF

 

[dxqcanada]

Ok, here goes ...

When the Canon mode dial is on M
The control dial will change you shutter speed.
If you hold down the AE button with your thumb the dial will change the lens aperture.

In the viewfinder there is a -2..1.. | ..1..2+ indicator
The arrow underneath shows if you are under (-) or over (+) exposed
Using a combination of shutter speed and aperture ... you want to target the middle ( | )

Here is a price list of scanners (if you want): Film Scanners

 

[naptime]

Ok, here goes ...

When the Canon mode dial is on M
The control dial will change you shutter speed.
If you hold down the AE button with your thumb the dial will change the lens aperture.

In the viewfinder there is a -2..1.. | ..1..2+ indicator
The arrow underneath shows if you are under (-) or over (+) exposed
Using a combination of shutter speed and aperture ... you want to target the middle ( | )

Here is a price list of scanners (if you want): Film Scanners

thanks. your explanation of metering just made a little sense. i'm gonna play with the camera and manual here in a few and see if i can make heads or tails of it.

for the scanner..

i was originally going to buy one of those film2sd scanners that scans the neg to an sd card in a matter of seconds for like 30 bucks. but the reviews were so horrible. and i was warned against it here on the board, as being a crap solution.

Ion Audio 35mm Slide & Film USB Scanner FILM2SD w/ 2GB SD Card | eBay was advised to look more into something more like an epson perfection film scanner.

and we will, when the budget allows for it.

this works enough for the moment.

 

[naptime]

Ok, here goes ...

When the Canon mode dial is on M
The control dial will change you shutter speed.
If you hold down the AE button with your thumb the dial will change the lens aperture.

In the viewfinder there is a -2..1.. | ..1..2+ indicator
The arrow underneath shows if you are under (-) or over (+) exposed
Using a combination of shutter speed and aperture ... you want to target the middle ( | )

just posted this back to you in my other thread.

i've been reading the manual. and playing with the camera. and by golly, i think i got it.

in the bottom right corner of my viewfinder, there is a little line that moves from +2 to -2 as i adjust the shutter or aperture.

so basically, i want every shot to be in the center?


if my camera is on manual, then it meters based on whatever is in the center of the viewfinder cross hairs.

so, what do i point this at. something white, or something black?

just playing here in the house, the exposure line will move based on the object i have in the center. ie: point at something black versus white.

i assume this will probably be answered in some of the links im about to read.

but, i think i'm getting it.

 

[naptime]

Naptime, you are my favorite new member here. You actually want to learn, and that actually makes me want to help you learn. Thank you for not getting all butt hurt when someone makes a joke or something, it's a refreshing change of pace around here.

As far as metering... Read this: Tips for Using Exposure Metering Modes - A Guide and Tips for Using Exposure Metering Modes on Your DSLR it explains the basics in laymans terms rather than the mumbo-jumbo that canon uses in their manuals.

thanks destin. appreciate the link. about to read it now.

this post was lost in the shuffle and i almost didn't see it.


yes, i try not to get upset when someone shows me something i did wrong. i recognize that i don't know it all, and i seek out answers from those who have them. i think it's sad when folks don't know anything, and then get mad when someone tells them so.

thanks for the help

 

[radiorickm]

Well, it's really great that you have figured out how to read the light meter now.

But, now there's bad news....light meters can be wrong. (lol) The two instances you mention, something solidly black or white, are ways that the light meter is fooled.

The meter is calibrated to make everything a middle, neutral color (called Middle, or Neutral Gray). When it sees something totally white, it say's "WOW, it's bright out there" and doesn't let in enough light, making the white turn to gray. Like wise, when it sees the solid black, it says "Wow" again, and becasue it's trying to make black turn into gray, it lets in way too much light.

These instances are where you use exposure compensation in auto modes, or in manual, you compensate for this by adding or subtracting from your light meter reading. In the case of black, the camera lets in too much light, so you might use a -1 on the meter. In case of the white subject, you want to add a little more light, so use a +1 for starters.

Another thing to use, is bracketing. Maybe shoot an exposure at -1, 0, and then at +1.

Just a side note here, but there USED to be several brands of B&W film that were C41 process. This might help you get them scanned easier??

Hope this helps