What's new

Confused about custom white balance

These strobes are 250 watts x 4 , I have them turned down almost to a minimum. Every time they trigger I have to close my eyes, I see bright orange flashes even with my eyes closed.
The strobes are fine just the modeling light sucks.
I imported a raw file into the raw editor and the WB is PERFECT. I mean the camera is taking perfect WB.

I cannot put into words how different the strobe light quality photo is compared to cfl. It's purer, very hard to describe, maybe cleaner? sharper?
Now i must practice
 

Attachments

  • WB1.webp
    WB1.webp
    87.5 KB · Views: 163
Sometimes it's worth it to spend a few extra dollars. That image looks very good, but just a trifle over-exposed; easily correctable in post.
 
questions
This was shot at s 1/200 f11 ISO 100.
What is the grey bar to the left? Is that because the shutter speed is too high? or is it a lack of light on the left side?
This shadow in front? Is the light on the backdrop so strong that it is causing a shadow in front?
Why do I see strong orange flashes in my eyes when the strobes are triggered? Should i wear sunglasses?
 

Attachments

  • question.webp
    question.webp
    213.5 KB · Views: 160
I'm not 100% sure about the grey bar; my first inclination is to say that it's a shutter sync problem. Even if your shutter sync is 1/200, or 1/250 (not sure which yours is), sometimes, especially with cheaper triggers, you have to reduce the SS slightly; try 1/160th and see what happens. Don't worry, it won't make any difference to your exposure.

The bottom shadow is a result of spill either from your background lights, or the one upper right; can't say for sure without seeing the setup, but either way, I would leave it. as it precludes that "floating in air" look it would have otherwise.

As for your eyes... that's the way the human eye is made and that's how it reacts to strong light. The best advice I can give you is, "Don't look at the strobes when you pop them!".
 
I'm not 100% sure about the grey bar; my first inclination is to say that it's a shutter sync problem. Even if your shutter sync is 1/200, or 1/250 (not sure which yours is), sometimes, especially with cheaper triggers, you have to reduce the SS slightly; try 1/160th and see what happens. Don't worry, it won't make any difference to your exposure.

The bottom shadow is a result of spill either from your background lights, or the one upper right; can't say for sure without seeing the setup, but either way, I would leave it. as it precludes that "floating in air" look it would have otherwise.

As for your eyes... that's the way the human eye is made and that's how it reacts to strong light. The best advice I can give you is, "Don't look at the strobes when you pop them!".
Thank you so much. Yes I lowered S speed and the bar is gone. I also tried one shot at 250, and the gray bar turned black and menacing.
I'm so glad you like the front shadow, so I don't have to figure out a way of removing it.
 
I'm so glad you like the front shadow, so I don't have to figure out a way of removing it.
Dude, don't give a damn what I like... it's all about what you like for your work.

Yeah, but if a critic such as yourself appreciates a front shadow. I would not dare remove it, I also like soft shadows.
I ordered a reflector with honey comb grids, I can't wait to try all this grid stuff to see how it changes the light.
 
Yeah, but if a critic such as yourself appreciates a front shadow. I would not dare remove it, I also like soft shadows.
I ordered a reflector with honey comb grids, I can't wait to try all this grid stuff to see how it changes the light.
I might have been doing this a little longer than you have, but that doesn't make me any more qualified to say what is good or not good than you or anyone else. It's important to recognize issues with your own work and accept critique, but it's even more important to stand up for your work when it's the way you want it.
 
Going better. Today was like a roller coaster, but it seems this could work.
I do notice, that each shot needs more or less light..
 

Attachments

  • 1.webp
    1.webp
    276.5 KB · Views: 134
  • 2.webp
    2.webp
    237.6 KB · Views: 131
  • 4.webp
    4.webp
    288.2 KB · Views: 161
  • 6.webp
    6.webp
    275.2 KB · Views: 165
I do not know if this is cause for concern but the following has been happening often since I use strobes. It never ever happened with CFL.
Occasionally, one out of every 20 pictures is black. However the camera does not freeze. I know the strobes triggered.
What has been happening today, is that the camera takes a shot and goes dead. I have to reboot the camera. The picture taken is horribly off color.
I do not know if this is a coincidence or something to do with strobes.
Do cameras need servicing? Mine is totally clean, never been out of the house.
 
Modern digital cameras don't need regular servicing the way mechanical film cameras did. I can only come up with two thoughts. One is that it's purely coincidence, and the other is that the trigger is causing a problem somehow. The former seems an awful stretch, but knowing how triggers and cameras work, the latter seems exceedingly unlikely. Is your battery fully charged, memory card formatted?
 
Ah, yes, you could be very correct. Now, since yesterday, there are triggers in the equation. I'm pretty sure it is the trigger. I have a spare hot shoe trigger i will try to replace it. It could well be this.
Once again, these are cheap Neewer RT 16 triggers. Any cheaper, and they would throw them at you!
 
WOW
the difference with strobes or CFL lighting is HUGE. How both behave is completely different.
With strobes the pathway of light is ONE. It obeys the book, strobes obey the family of angles. Cfl's do not.
In other words a person reading SLM and is using CFL'S with multiple soft boxes may pull his hair out trying to make sense of the book.
Positioning strobes in different places around my bag gives me a completely different result. Cfl's give more or less the same mess no matter where they are placed.
I am now starting to understand that we DO NOT NEED to see reflections in real time before they happen with strobes, because if they are outside the family the metal will be dark, and never cause a direct reflection.
WOW!! CFL'S should be banned from photography.
 
Ummm, my first patent leather bag.
One light on the backdrop which is fine.
The other 3 strobes are pointing to the white ceiling and are just giving light all over. I tried two strobes to the side of the bag and I get reflections. Where would you place the light?
Maybe one directly above the bag?
 

Attachments

  • how.webp
    how.webp
    150.4 KB · Views: 150

Most reactions

Back
Top Bottom