Nikon 55~200 AFS

[Quovadis]

Does the focus lock button lock the focus only when the shutter button is half pressed? Whats the point of having the focus lock if you do not release the shutter button anyway?

Will this work?
Focus on desired area by pressing shutter half way.
Press focus lock.
Release shutter button
Reposition bag in frame
Take picture

I do not understand the purpose of the focus lock?

 

[Quovadis]

Here is a bag at f11 and I took the initial focus on bottom left which is the closest point to the lens. I then re-positioned the bag in frame and finished pressing the shutter.
I did not lock the focus. Is this a mistake?
I noticed that the right end of the bag is not crisp, F11 should be plenty to cover this small DOF? Why do you think the right side is not crisp?

 

[fmw]

Here is a bag at f11 and I took the initial focus on bottom left which is the closest point to the lens. I then re-positioned the bag in frame and finished pressing the shutter.
I did not lock the focus. Is this a mistake?
I noticed that the right end of the bag is not crisp, F11 should be plenty to cover this small DOF? Why do you think the right side is not crisp?View attachment 125208

Probably the lighting. It is in acceptable focus.

 

[Designer]

The problem is that I have a wireless shutter release button, I will not be able to use that, but I can use the 2 second delay.

Alternately would either of these two work:
1. place any red focus point on the left grommet
2. focus half way shutter press
3. Lock the focus. ae-l BUTTON
4. re-position bag in frame
5. take shot

OR
1. place any red focus point on the left grommet
2. focus half way shutter press
3. Slide The A to M for manual focus
4. re-position bag in frame
5. take shot

The 2-second delay does not lock focus.

The way you would do this with a wireless shutter release is to use manual (M) focus, focus on whatever spot you want, then without changing the focus, reframe to get the subject properly framed, then take the shot using your wireless shutter release.

If you didn't use the wireless, then use method #1.

 

[Dave442]

Where do I focus

As the object is three dimensional then there is some depth to it and you should consider how much DOF you need to achieve the effect you want when putting it into a 2D medium.

As DOF was discussed already, taking that and then deciding on the point to focus on depends on the result you want. In general it helps if foreground objects are in focus so in general just focus on the point of the bag that is closest to the camera.

Sometimes to maximise the DOF you can focus behind the closest point as your total DOF is generally 1/3 in front of the focus point and 2/3 behind when using a wide to normal lens and goes to 1/2 - 1/2 as you focus very close or go to telephoto lenses. Just some rules of thumb and you can see the actual numbers when you use a DOF calculator - your example gave you a total of 1.87 feet that will appear in focus. However it is only 1.11 feet from your 5 foot focus point to the back. As it is often easiest to focus on the closest point and you are best off rounding down on distance then you can easily remember f/11 and you have a foot in focus from where you focus to the back (at 5 feet away and at that focal length).

The DOF is dependent as well on the circle of confusion, so the idea is that when using the DOF numbers you will be looking at the final image at a normal viewing distance, if you are zooming in are enlarging the photo and looking at it very close then the amount of area you will see as being in focus will diminish. The solution is often to just look at the picture from a normal distance to evaluate focus.

I do not understand the purpose of the focus lock?

Using the wireless shutter release and the focus and compose method: Best option for me has been to set the AE-L button to AF-ON only. This is the back-button-focus method.
-In this way you will put your focus point on the point you want in focus.
-Push the AE-L button to activate the autofocus and check that focus has been established.
-Release the AE-L button.
-Recompose the scene to have the bag how you want it in the frame.
-Let the camera sit for a second to let vibrations stop.
-Release the shutter using your remote shutter release.
I also have the camera set to AF-C and release priority.
In this method, if you only push the shutter button you do not activate the auto-focus - so it is like you are in manual focus at that point.

 

[Designer]

I tried the AE-L button to lock focus, it did nothing.
I tried it the way you suggested with the 2 second delay, it's not as difficult as it seems, but I have to remember not to release shutter button one bag is repositioned in the view finder.

You have to go into the menu to program the AE-L button to lock focus. And you can't let go of the button before you get the bag properly framed. I don't think the 2 second delay locks focus. Try it though to verify.

 

[Designer]

Does the focus lock button lock the focus only when the shutter button is half pressed? Whats the point of having the focus lock if you do not release the shutter button anyway?

Will this work?
Focus on desired area by pressing shutter half way.
Press focus lock.
Release shutter button
Reposition bag in frame
Take picture

I do not understand the purpose of the focus lock?

The reason you need to lock the focus is so your camera does not re-focus as you move the frame over.

 

[Quovadis]

thanks guys, let me experiment...

 

[Quovadis]

Intuitively, which F value would you guys use for these bags? We are talking of DOF'S that are maybe maximum 12".
I was told that the sharpest F on these lenses is around f11?

 

[Designer]

Intuitively, which F value would you guys use for these bags? We are talking of DOF'S that are maybe maximum 12".
I was told that the sharpest F on these lenses is around f11?

IMO choosing an aperture "intuitively" is not the best way.

The sample calculation you did above indicates a DOF of 1.87 ft. which is nearly two feet, or almost twice what you actually need. Do some experimentation with different apertures to find out what you like best.

 

[wezza13]

Haha just read through this thread and, while you guys are trying your best at being helpful, it seems 100% clear to me that he's on a wind-up.

Re-read the thread lol, he's not the one confused, he's trying to confuse all of you!

Auslese is back, I fear

 

[Quovadis]

Haha just read through this thread and, while you guys are trying your best at being helpful, it seems 100% clear to me that he's on a wind-up.

Re-read the thread lol, he's not the one confused, he's trying to confuse all of you!

Auslese is back, I fear

Not at all, In 3 days, I am taking very sharp pictures with no need to correct anything in photoshop. 3 days ago I was spending 10 minutes per photo in photoshop correcting, color, white levels, black levels, sharpness etc.
Photography can be very counter intuitive for beginners with DSLR'S. If you are a newbie like me and you understand everything in this thread, well more power to you.

 

[Quovadis]

When I look at all nikor lenses, Tokina and sigma, they categorize types of photography, sports, landscape, portrait, macro etc..
Would photographing bags be portrait? Or macro?

 

[Designer]

When I look at all nikor lenses, Tokina and sigma, they categorize types of photography, sports, landscape, portrait, macro etc..
Would photographing bags be portrait? Or macro?

Actually neither, but for lens selection I would consider your bags to be more like portraiture.

 

[Quovadis]

I like the idea of this, so i bought it. I am suffering badly with the fluorescents because my camera keep flashing "poor light" and I cannot go under 1/3s.
If it works well I will tell you. I simply can't afford strobes and I do not have adequate skills and knowledge to use strobes at the moment.
Amazon.com : LimoStudio LED 18" Ring Flash Light Dimmable SMD LED Lighting Kit 5500K Photography Photo Studio Light Stands, AGG1775 : Camera & Photo