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Nikon 55~200 AFS

I just tried these LED panels of continuous light. I thought I was going to be receiving really bright dimmable lights. These are no way bright enough. I would say that a 100 watt fluorescent bulb is much brighter. I will return them because i cannot go beyond s1/2 on F11 iso 100.
If i diffuse them they will get weaker....I will return them. This sucks!!
 

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One guy mentioned shooting at s1/60 earlier in this thread. If i shoot at s1/60 at iso 100 or 200 @F11 @70mm the image is way too dark. Would the shot be made possible with strobes?
 
I just tried these LED panels of continuous light. I thought I was going to be receiving really bright dimmable lights. These are no way bright enough. I would say that a 100 watt fluorescent bulb is much brighter. I will return them because i cannot go beyond s1/2 on F11 iso 100.
If i diffuse them they will get weaker....I will return them. This sucks!!
yeah, you usually get what you pay for.

good speedlight / good strobes are the answer time and time again.
as mentioned, that one example you had showed shadows that I believe were made from one (probably diffused strobe) from the top right. The right equipment makes all the difference. The wrong equipment just makes it all that much harder.
 
"better is the enemy of good." Voltaire
 
Move your lights closer...

using tapatalk.
 
Guys,
The lighting animal is HUGE. it's like taking a masters. It needs time and money, and experimentation. The lens is a minor problem compared to the lighting
I am testing this AFS 50mm Nikon 1.8g lens I just received, and find it's sharpest point is around F 6~8 (for bags anyway). Yes it's marginally sharper than the 18-55 or the 55-200 cheapo zoom.
The problem is that it is only marginally sharper. I noticed one thing though with this prime lens. The hot spots have more blue tone in them. Anyone know why? Here is a pic taken with the new lens f 7.1 1/8s @50mm ISO 100
 

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I think these stupid bags need a different F stop depending on the angle they are placed in.
 
Is there a software program that would allow a dark raw
"better is the enemy of good." Voltaire

Yes, but I still need to get to "good"
Move your lights closer...

using tapatalk.
I agree.
Read a bit about the Inverse square law in photography.

Thank you...would never have guessed that light loses so much power. And, like a bloody idiot, i kept moving them back because i'm phobic about hot spots.
Lucky my bags don't move as well!!!
 
Guys,
The lighting animal is HUGE. it's like taking a masters. It needs time and money, and experimentation. The lens is a minor problem compared to the lighting
I am testing this AFS 50mm Nikon 1.8g lens I just received, and find it's sharpest point is around F 6~8 (for bags anyway). Yes it's marginally sharper than the 18-55 or the 55-200 cheapo zoom.
The problem is that it is only marginally sharper. I noticed one thing though with this prime lens. The hot spots have more blue tone in them. Anyone know why? Here is a pic taken with the new lens f 7.1 1/8s @50mm ISO 100

I would not try to guess if the blue tone was lens or light related. You would need to take shots with the 18-55mm and then with the 50mm with the same lighting and White Balance setting to see if it is a lens issue. The lenses can have a difference in how they render color, but generally the concern is if there is strong chromatic aberration. Most often the issue is the lighting and it can be a White Balance issue. It does seem a bit hot at the point you indicated, sometimes you can use a flag to remove some light from specific parts of the subject.
 
Here is what happens with lights close up, tons of reflections. I have wax paper over the LED's
This was taken f6.3 ISO 100, S 1/30 @55MM
 

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