The new Nikon Z-Mount Cameras- who is in?

[astroNikon]

Here's what I would love Nikon to finally do: drop BULB and allow for any shutter speed length without a third-party controller. I'm a simple man.

Nope, I still want Bulb.
When I do some of my long exposures, like aerial fireworks, I do not know how long I want any particular shot to be. And shot to shot, they are NOT the same duration. So I cannot specify the shutter time in advance.

Here's what I would love Nikon to finally do: drop BULB and allow for any shutter speed length without a third-party controller. I'm a simple man.

Nope, I still want Bulb.
When I do some of my long exposures, like aerial fireworks, I do not know how long I want any particular shot to be. And shot to shot, they are NOT the same duration. So I cannot specify the shutter time in advance.

Eh, allow for both then.

Do you really hold that shutter open the whole time? Don’t you get camera shake?


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Same thing I do for fireworks.

Since it's dark it's essentially light painting on the sensor. You open when it's shot off the ground if you want a tail, hold it open until the explosion just starts to fade ... Which is an unknown totally dependent upon the firework and when you want to start (a tail or just the explosion itself).

I use the corded release all the time for just the button. Push and hold in for as long as necessary. Let go and it stops. I have other remotes and Wifi remote but the old corded one just works better and simplier.

 

[Braineack]

Again, totally valid, but what if I'm using a 10-ND filter and calculate I want to shoot for 45sec?

 

[ac12]

Again, totally valid, but what if I'm using a 10-ND filter and calculate I want to shoot for 45sec?

If you KNOW what exposure time you want, then yes, an extended exposure control where you can set the exposure time is good to have, be it in the camera or via an external device.

I am so used to the old film cameras, that even if I had that function in the camera, I would probably use bulb, a remote shutter release and my watch.

 

[Destin]

Again, totally valid, but what if I'm using a 10-ND filter and calculate I want to shoot for 45sec?

If you KNOW what exposure time you want, then yes, an extended exposure control where you can set the exposure time is good to have, be it in the camera or via an external device.

I am so used to the old film cameras, that even if I had that function in the camera, I would probably use bulb, a remote shutter release and my watch.

I feel like a lot of people would. But it would be nice for when I don’t wanna carry a lot of stuff into the back country.

 

[BrentC]

I just use Live Composite. Who cares about exposure time.

 

[astroNikon]

Again, totally valid, but what if I'm using a 10-ND filter and calculate I want to shoot for 45sec?

If you KNOW what exposure time you want, then yes, an extended exposure control where you can set the exposure time is good to have, be it in the camera or via an external device.

I am so used to the old film cameras, that even if I had that function in the camera, I would probably use bulb, a remote shutter release and my watch.

I feel like a lot of people would. But it would be nice for when I don’t wanna carry a lot of stuff into the back country.

The OEM Corded release is super light and small (the 3rd party ones are larger though). I always have a watch on, or at least my cell phone to use as a timer. And then there's the IR release too which is small and thin and easily lost.

 

[Destin]

Again, totally valid, but what if I'm using a 10-ND filter and calculate I want to shoot for 45sec?

If you KNOW what exposure time you want, then yes, an extended exposure control where you can set the exposure time is good to have, be it in the camera or via an external device.

I am so used to the old film cameras, that even if I had that function in the camera, I would probably use bulb, a remote shutter release and my watch.

I feel like a lot of people would. But it would be nice for when I don’t wanna carry a lot of stuff into the back country.

The OEM Corded release is super light and small (the 3rd party ones are larger though). I always have a watch on, or at least my cell phone to use as a timer. And then there's the IR release too which is small and thin and easily lost.

Yeah, but it’s all just one more thing to forget. If I head out to shoot long exposures, I can be totally sunk and unable to get my shot simply by forgetting a $10 remote or having dead batteries in it.

My $3000 camera body should be able to take a photo at whatever shutter speed I desire without me needing to carry and extra accessory.

 

[Derrel]

Simple: add back "T" in addition to B. T, for time, opens on
Press 1,closes on press 2 of the shutter. It works great. Open, put a card or hat in front on rhe lens ....wait...when the firework boom is heard, remove the hat ir card and you are already open. Expose as desired, counting or timing. When you press the button a second time, shutter closes. You use a card or other light-blocker as needed. The shutter can be opened early and vibration allowed to quell before beginning the exposure.

T is great for loooooong timed shots. No cord needed, no cord to jiggle in the breeze, etc.

 

[dxqcanada]

Yeah, they just need to stick good old Copal leaf shutters back into all these new lenses

 

[Braineack]

I am so used to the old film cameras, that even if I had that function in the camera, I would probably use bulb, a remote shutter release and my watch.

I can set whatever silly time interval, or exposure bracketing, or even aperture bracketing I want -- but I can't tell the camera to take a 45sec shot.

bulb is a legacy term. and building to legacy is dumb.

 

[Derrel]

Sorry, but no bulb is not dumb. Bulb is for open flash. Bulb is for studio work when you don't have enough flash power for a single-pop expusure, like say whwn shooting cars or large products, when you need to stop way down, and you need four or five or six pops of the flash pack in a darkened studio: you put the camera on Bulb with a cable release or a wireless temote, and use open flash, as it has been known for decades. B stands for bulb, as in flashbulb, or for open flash uses. You can take a large 2400 W second power pack six seconds to cycle to 85% and if you need six pops it's going to be several times longer than most people would expect.

 

[astroNikon]

Again, totally valid, but what if I'm using a 10-ND filter and calculate I want to shoot for 45sec?

If you KNOW what exposure time you want, then yes, an extended exposure control where you can set the exposure time is good to have, be it in the camera or via an external device.

I am so used to the old film cameras, that even if I had that function in the camera, I would probably use bulb, a remote shutter release and my watch.

I feel like a lot of people would. But it would be nice for when I don’t wanna carry a lot of stuff into the back country.

The OEM Corded release is super light and small (the 3rd party ones are larger though). I always have a watch on, or at least my cell phone to use as a timer. And then there's the IR release too which is small and thin and easily lost.

Yeah, but it’s all just one more thing to forget. If I head out to shoot long exposures, I can be totally sunk and unable to get my shot simply by forgetting a $10 remote or having dead batteries in it.

My $3000 camera body should be able to take a photo at whatever shutter speed I desire without me needing to carry and extra accessory.

Just use the shutter button then.
No battery in the corded ones. But I understand what you say. You want a infinite built in timer.

For me, I like controlling the shutter, the time between the shutter opening and then initiating the sensor.
Sometimes I initiate the shutter up (for MUP+BULB). then have to wait for a slight breeze that started (or time to walk away, or block the wind, or something rumbling by) before initiating the sensor.

 

[Braineack]

Sorry, but no bulb is not dumb. Bulb is for open flash. Bulb is for studio work when you don't have enough flash power for a single-pop expusure, like say whwn shooting cars or large products, when you need to stop way down, and you need four or five or six pops of the flash pack in a darkened studio: you put the camera on Bulb with a cable release or a wireless temote, and use open flash, as it has been known for decades. B stands for bulb, as in flashbulb, or for open flash uses. You can take a large 2400 W second power pack six seconds to cycle to 85% and if you need six pops it's going to be several times longer than most people would expect.

again, that's fine and valid, but a digital camera not being able to program, digitally, the amount of time you want to open the shutter for is. it's just such a low-hanging fruit thing that many photographers would use, but have to go to third-party devices to do.

 

[BananaRepublic]

Do third part devices need to purchase some sort of license from nikon, ergo are they making more money from the licensing then the margin gained from including it on models

 

[Braineack]

of all the silly things to have to buy -- to freakin' program the shutter time past 30sec?! it's just such an arbitrary time to limit you to.

it's just one of those things that irks me. I ran into that in Greece when I was doing some long-exposure stuff and hit the 30sec barrier.