Wide angle distortion

[Emerana]

I rented a EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 for my upcoming trip to Chicago. I really want to do some architecture shots. I think that distorted look is cool, but how can you fix that? I am now working with lightroom and CS3 although I am VERY new to both programs.

 

[asfixiate]

Couldn't you just step away from your subject?

 

[Alfred D.]

I think that distorted look is cool, but how can you fix that?

What?
Do you want that distorted look, or don't you?

 

[Emerana]

some times want it, sometimes dont. step away? hummm...isnt there a way to fix it in photoshop?

 

[asfixiate]

are you talking about the "fish-eye" kinda look?

 

[Big Mike]

Select the entire image and use the Transform or skew command to play with it.

 

[saltface]

Would a shift lens work? (I'm not sure if you can get one wide enough).

 

[Big Mike]

Yes, a tilt/shift lens is often used in architectural photography and can help you to prevent converging lines like the sides of a tall building.

I believe the widest Canon TSE is 24mm...which isn't very wide on a crop body.

 

[Alfred D.]

some times want it, sometimes dont. step away? hummm...isnt there a way to fix it in photoshop?

Yes, there is. But before someone goes to the trouble to explain it all to you, and you subsequently turn around to ask deadpan how to do the opposite – to achieve that wide angle effect – I think you better first make up your mind which you want, Emerana.

 

[Emerana]

Yes, there is. But before someone goes to the trouble to explain it all to you, and you subsequently turn around to ask deadpan how to do the opposite – to achieve that wide angle effect – I think you better first make up your mind which you want, Emerana.

Seriously, what are you talking about? Never freaking mind, I will figure it out on my own :thumbdown:

 

[Helen B]

In Photoshop CS2 and CS3 I think the best way is to use Filter>Distort>Lens Correction, and turn the grid on. If you do it that way on the uncropped camera image you will not affect the aspect ratio of the building. If you use the Transform tool you need to expand the top and contract the bottom, so the centerline stays the same width. The Lens Correction filter does that for you automatically.

You don’t always need a shift lens (tilt is not usually necessary for architectural work) to get it right in camera. You can simply use a wide enough lens to get the whole building in without tilting the camera, then crop the bottom off.


Best,
Helen

 

[Atreus]

+1 to Alfred being a snobby troll.

 

[Mav]

Yes, there is. But before someone goes to the trouble to explain it all to you, and you subsequently turn around to ask deadpan how to do the opposite – to achieve that wide angle effect – I think you better first make up your mind which you want, Emerana.

Dude, drop the attitude. :thumbdown:

 

[PhotoDonkey]

Yes, there is. But before someone goes to the trouble to explain it all to you, and you subsequently turn around to ask deadpan how to do the opposite – to achieve that wide angle effect – I think you better first make up your mind which you want, Emerana.

She specifically stated that she liked the effect, but wants to know how to get rid of it in the pictures she doesn't want it in. You're obviously intelligent. I don't understand why you're acting obtuse.

 

[Mav]

I rented a EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 for my upcoming trip to Chicago. I really want to do some architecture shots. I think that distorted look is cool, but how can you fix that? I am now working with lightroom and CS3 although I am VERY new to both programs.

Coincidentally I just got back from Chicago myself the other month. I just picked up a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 but didn't have it at the time so I was using my fisheye a lot.

Uncorrected:

Full rectilinear conversion, about a 104-degree angle of view, slightly wider than the 10-22 would be:

Image Trends Hemi conversion:

All of these distort in different ways, so it's just a question of what looks the most natural.


Another shot, full fisheye:

90% rectilinear converstion with some barrel distortion intentionally left in:

Hemi conversion:

When I did the full 100% rectilinear conversions on these shots they never quite looked right because there was just too much of the stiff peg-legged distortion at the corners, which is what ultra-wides do. If I only did the rectilinear conversion about 85-90% of the way and intentionally left some barrel distortion in the shot, they did seem to look a bit more natural to my eyes. You could probably do the same thing with a rectilinear ultra-wide like the EF-S 10-22 and use the CS3 lens distortion correction tools to add some barrel distortion back in, although you'd probably have to end up cropping a bit of the image away. Shouldn't be too big of a deal though. I'm just learning how to shoot with my Tokina 11-16 so don't have any tips on how best to compose or shoot with one yet.